Measurement of the entire length of the traditional long cheongsam
Traditional Long Qipao Full Body Measurements: A Complete Guide to Getting Every Number Right
Making a long qipao from scratch starts long before the first cut of scissors. It starts with a measuring tape, a full-length mirror, and the patience to get every single number correct. One wrong measurement and the entire silhouette collapses. The waist gapes, the hips bind, the hem drags. Unlike ready-to-wear clothing, a handmade qipao has almost zero room for error because the pattern is cut to your exact body with no ease to hide behind. This guide walks through every measurement you need, how to take it, and why each one matters.
Why Standard Sizing Does Not Work for a Long Qipao
Most people grab their usual size and hand it to a tailor. That works for a t-shirt. It does not work for a long qipao. A traditional full-length qipao follows the body so closely that a difference of even half a centimeter changes how the entire garment hangs. The bust measurement affects the dart placement. The waist measurement controls the entire taper. The hip measurement determines whether the skirt portion flows or pulls. Everything connects.
A long qipao also has unique challenges that shorter versions do not. The hem length interacts with the hip measurement. The collar height depends on the neck circumference. The shoulder slope changes based on the back length. You cannot measure these in isolation. You need to measure them as a system.
The Core Measurements: Bust, Waist, and Hips
These three numbers are the foundation. Everything else builds on top of them.
Bust Measurement: Where to Place the Tape and Why It Matters
Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your bust. Not above it, not below it — right at the peak. Keep the tape level all the way around, parallel to the floor. Do not pull it tight. Do not let it sag. It should sit snug against the skin without compressing the tissue.
For a qipao, you actually need two bust numbers. The first is the full bust — the measurement at the peak. The second is the underbust — the measurement right below the bust line where the bra band sits. The difference between these two tells the maker how much dart volume is needed. A larger difference means deeper darts, which means a more sculpted bodice. A smaller difference means a flatter front, which works better for simpler qipao styles.
Write both numbers down. Most people forget the underbust, and it is just as important as the full bust.
Waist Measurement: Finding Your True Natural Waist
This is the measurement most people get wrong. They measure where their pants sit. That is not the waist. Your natural waist is the narrowest point of your torso, usually about one to two inches above your navel. Bend slightly to one side and feel for the small indentation — that is your true waist.
Wrap the tape around that point. Keep it level. Breathe normally. Do not suck in your stomach. The measurement you get is the one the pattern uses. If you suck in, the qipao will be too tight the moment you relax.
For a long qipao, the waist measurement also determines the taper ratio. The difference between your waist and your hip measurements tells the maker how dramatic the curve should be. A small difference creates a straight, column-like silhouette. A large difference creates the classic hourglass shape that qipao are famous for.
Hip Measurement: The Number That Controls the Entire Skirt
Stand with your feet together. Wrap the tape around the widest part of your hips and buttocks. This is usually about seven to eight inches below your natural waist. The tape must pass over the fullest part of your glutes — not above them, not below them.
This measurement is critical for a long qipao because the skirt portion falls from the hip to the floor. If the hip measurement is even slightly off, the fabric will either pull across the buttocks or bag below them. There is no hiding a wrong hip measurement in a long qipao. The skirt has nowhere to go.
Also measure the hip depth — the distance from your waist to the widest point of your hips. This tells the maker where to place the hip line on the pattern, which affects how the skirt begins to flare.
The Vertical Measurements: Lengths That Define the Silhouette
Horizontal measurements control the width. Vertical measurements control the look.
Back Length: From Neck to Floor
Stand straight against a wall. Have someone measure from the base of your neck — right where the collar should sit — straight down your spine to the floor. This is your back length, and it determines how long the qipao will be from the collar to the hem.
For a traditional long qipao, this number usually falls between 120 and 140 cm depending on your height. But do not assume. Measure it. A tall person with a short torso needs a different back length than a short person with a long torso. The number tells the truth; height does not.
Front Length: Slightly Different From the Back
The front length is not the same as the back length. Because the bust projects forward, the front of the qipao needs to be slightly shorter than the back. The difference is usually 1 to 2 cm. If you only measure the back length and use it for the front, the qipao will bunch at the bust and gap at the hem.
Measure from the base of your neck, over the fullest point of your bust, and down to the floor. Write this number separately from the back length.
Shoulder Width: From Edge to Edge
Measure from the tip of one shoulder bone to the tip of the other. Follow the natural slope of your shoulders — do not go across the neck. This measurement determines how wide the qipao should be at the top.
For a long qipao, the shoulder width also affects the sleeve cap. Even sleeveless qipao have a shoulder cap that needs to fit. If the shoulder width is wrong, the armhole will gap or bind no matter how well the rest of the qipao fits.
Sleeve Length: If Your Qipao Has Sleeves
Some long qipao come with sleeves — short ones, three-quarter, or full-length. Measure from the shoulder tip down to where you want the sleeve to end. For a short sleeve, this is usually mid-bicep. For a three-quarter sleeve, it lands just below the elbow. For a full-length sleeve, it reaches the wrist bone.
The sleeve opening circumference also matters. Measure around the upper arm where the sleeve should end. This tells the maker how wide to cut the sleeve opening so it does not squeeze the arm.
The Neck and Collar Measurements: The Part Everyone Forgets
The collar is the most technically demanding part of any qipao, and it requires its own set of measurements.
Neck Circumference
Wrap the tape around the base of your neck, right where a collar would sit. Keep the tape level and snug but not tight. You should be able to fit one finger between the tape and your skin.
This number determines the collar opening size. The collar should be 0.5 to 1 cm smaller than your actual neck circumference so it sits snugly without stretching. If you use your exact neck measurement, the collar will sag within an hour.
Neck Height: Front to Back
Measure from the front base of your neck to the back base of your neck, going over the top of the shoulder. This tells the maker how tall the collar stand needs to be at the back versus the front. The back of the collar is usually 1 to 2 cm taller than the front because the neck slopes downward from back to front.
If you skip this measurement, the collar will either choke you at the back or gap at the front. Both are common problems, and both come from not measuring the neck height.
Putting It All Together: The Measurement Sheet That Actually Works
A good measurement sheet for a long qipao includes every number listed above, plus a few extras that most people overlook.
Armhole Depth
Measure from the shoulder tip straight down to the level of your underbust. This tells the maker how deep the armhole should be. A shallow armhole restricts movement. A deep armhole makes the qipao look sloppy. The sweet spot is usually 18 to 22 cm from the shoulder tip.
Distance Between Bust Points
Measure horizontally across the front of your body from the center of one bust point to the center of the other. This number controls where the front placket sits and how the pankou buttons align. If this measurement is off, the buttons will not line up with the center front, and the entire placket will look crooked.
Knee Height From the Floor
For a long qipao, measure from the floor up to your knee cap. This tells the maker where the hem will land relative to your leg. It also helps them decide if a side slit is needed and how high it should open.
Common Measurement Mistakes That Ruin Long Qipao
Measuring Over Clothes
Never measure over a thick sweater or a padded bra. The tape needs to sit against your skin or against a thin, form-fitting undergarment. Every layer of clothing adds bulk, and that bulk gets built into the pattern. A qipao cut over a winter coat will be too large by the time you wear it in summer.
Standing Too Straight or Too Relaxed
Your posture during measurement changes every number. If you stand rigidly straight, your waist measurement shrinks and your hip measurement shrinks. If you slouch, both numbers grow. Stand in a natural, relaxed position with your weight evenly distributed on both feet. This is the posture you will wear the qipao in, so it is the posture you should measure in.
Not Measuring Twice
Always measure every number twice. Take the first measurement, write it down, then take it again. If the two numbers do not match, take a third. Your body is not perfectly symmetrical, and a single measurement can be off by a centimeter or more without you realizing it.
Forgetting to Note Your Dominant Side
Most people have one shoulder slightly higher than the other. One hip slightly wider. Note which side is dominant and tell your maker. They will adjust the pattern accordingly so the qipao sits level on your body even though your body is not perfectly level.
